Yesterday I shared info on in-camera focus stacking of images captured with the Post Focus Photo Mode in the Lumix GX85. The PFPM is a great feature for getting images from moving objects, quick captures and times where you won’t need to crop into the image very much because the still frames pulled from the video are eight megapixels. Eight megapixels can get you to a twenty-inch print with no problem but when you want to go big it’s time for a new feature built into the camera.
Focus Bracketing is different than the Post Focus Photo Mode in that the camera will be making image captures using the full-size files and changing the focus between each shot automatically. Here’s the screen you will see to set up the capture of multiple images with one push of the button.
The new Bracket Menu. Options include Exposure Bracketing, Aperture Bracketing, Focus Bracketing and White Balance Bracketing.
Menu with the Focus Bracket Chosen.
Each one of the menus adds choices. You’ll need to experiment and ‘bracket’ your choices as you learn the results. Step – is the distance that the focus will move on each exposure. Image Count – will be the number of frames made with a single push of the shutter button. You’ll want to ensure there’s enough to cover the scene. Sequence – is the order the images are taken in. Choices are 0/+ to start close and go far (I recommend) or 0/-/+ which will alternate how the bracket is accomplished. I found that Photoshop tends to choke when creating the focus stack using this setting.
Here’s an example of a completed capture and focus stack using Adobe Photoshop taken at Horseshoe Bend just outside Page, Arizona. The Focus Bracketing allowed for a much deeper depth of field in the final image.
Horseshoe Bend, Page Arizona. The depth of field extends from the near foreground to the far distance.
People ask why do you want to go to all this work? I just set my camera to a smaller aperture like f16 or f22 for deeper depth of field. There is some science that will come into play here. When you use smaller apertures, you will introduce diffraction into your image which will soften the image. There is a sweet spot in lenses between f5.6 and f10, depending upon the lens, that is the absolute best quality the lens can produce. That is the f stop to use when focus stacking. All the sharp areas will be the sharpest and highest quality when combined.
I’ll look at the actual focus stacking technique in a future post using Adobe Photoshop. There are also automatic software solutions like Helicon Focus, Zyrene Stacker, and possibly others for you to check out if you plan to do a lot of stacking.
Yesterday I shared a time-lapse video shot and processed with my Lumix GX8 and Adobe Premiere Pro.
While those frames were being recorded I used the GX85 to photograph some still images. Here are a couple in-camera panoramas. Cameras are becoming more like portable imaging computers with each new release.
Stitched in-camera Sedona pano. Hwy 179. The camera is held in the vertical orientation to give a slightly taller image. If there was lots of cloud action I would have taken a second pano and stitched them together in Photoshop for an even taller rendition of the scene.
The field of view depends on how long you continue to pan. A longer panning time gives a different aspect ratio.
Here’s a tip for creating smooth panorama photos with clean stitching. This is an old videographer’s trick. Point your body and feet to where you would like the panorama to end. Then using your stomach muscles turn back to the starting point of the image. Make sure the camera is tight against your forehead and is not tilted. Then using your stomach muscles gently pivot to the end of the field of view. The stomach muscles are larger and more stable giving you a smoother movement resulting in less stitching errors. One final note, there is a preview of your capture in the viewfinder. You will want to go a little bit further than you see or your image will be truncated just a bit. If you are moving too fast or too slow or the light is too low, the camera will return an error message.
Of course as the sun begins to set colors can change immensely
And of course, don’t forget to turn around. This is the back side of Cathedral Rock in silhouette.
Our creative tools are getting better and better. It’s a fun time to be an image maker.
While out waiting for the moon to make its appearance the night before the Supermoon I worked a couple of cameras. I set up the Lumix GX8 to do a time-lapse of the sunset/moonrise. Glad that I also had the Lumix GX85 as a second camera to mess about with while the time-lapse was being recorded.
Here’s a still I pulled for the time lapse sequence.
The time-lapse was pretty simple. The settings are available in the camera. No need for an intervalometer. Under the Time Lapse Shot menu, you have the choice of Start time which can be immediately (now) or a time set in the future. Shooting Interval which is the amount of time between frame captures. Image Count which is the number of frames to be captured. In this case, I fired one frame every four seconds.
I thought I had a better position for the moonrise which was quite a bit to the right of where it actually showed up. I stopped the captures pretty early after the moon made its appearance. Looks like I need to calibrate my compass.
I was able to add some interest because I choose to have the camera process the still images to a 4K video. 4K video enables you to move around in the image without losing quality which I did in Adobe Premiere. Did you catch that part about the camera processing the time-lapse? A very cool feature. I choose the output settings including quality and frames per second. In this case, I used twenty-four.
For the video below I changed the output settings to 12 frames per second. I did a little color correction and added movement in Adobe Premiere.
Tomorrow I’ll show you what I was photographing with the Lumix GX85.
Last week I showed you some night sky photography with some stills blended together. When shooting night skies getting some detail into the foreground takes a bit of work when you are shooting in a dark skies compliant area like Sedona, Arizona. While I was capturing those images with my Lumix GX85 I set up the Lumix GX8 on a tripod for a time lapse sequence.
The lens was the Vario 12-35mm f2.8 set at f2.8. ISO 200 and 30-second exposures. I set the interval to 32-seconds to give the camera a little time to reset. Noise reduction setting was disabled as the camera would have been taking an extra 30 seconds to create the noise reduction for each image. Way too long for what I was trying to do. Using the camera’s processing I was able to make videos at various settings without any problems at all. Here is a minute and a half video showing all of the results including an edit with Photoshop.
Stars are making a circle around the north star. Funny how they twinkle just as they do when you are looking at them live.
Time Lapse Video of 140 images processed in-camera at twenty-four, twelve , eight and four frames per second. I also processed the images in Adobe Photoshop using the timeline to create a ten frames per second video.
One note. I was able to take the RAW files into Photoshop and process the red rock area different than the sky area which allows more detail and color to be in the final video. All the files were imported into Adobe Premiere and resized, captioned and rendered to HD. The videos I made in-camera were processed out as 4K files which gives more possibilities in the final movie. I could have left them large and then had the possibility of movement like panning or zooming through the video to create even more interest.
Here is a still image processed from the same scene. A one second and a thirty-second exposure blended with extra process in MacPhun’s Intensify CK
Thought I’d give the red rocks under the night sky a shot. We have dark skies ordinances in Sedona and the Village of Oak Creek. Add to that the undeveloped land under the Park Service and State Parks the stars can shine.
It was a new moon night, and the clouds had parted for places unknown. It was a very clear night. When the cat woke me up, I decided to run out and see what I could do with the new Lumix GX85. I added the 15mm f1.7 lens and started taking multiple exposures for combining later in post-production. There are all kinds of rules for focusing properly and how long your exposures can be before the stars start to move and streak during your exposure depending on lens choice. I’m not going to share that part cause some photographers have been doing night photography much longer than I. A bit of searching on the web can get you that info. After I have practiced more, I’ll share some of that information after I’ve tested more.
Castle Rock in the Village of Oak Creek, Sedona, AZ
Courthouse Butte Looking north. I will share time-lapse video sequences captured by the GX8 in a future post.
Both images were made with multiple exposures layered together using Adobe Photoshop.
It’s a new world for me to play in.
Now all I have to do is be able to stay awake overnight!
For infrared conversion of my cameras I use LifePixel. Infrared allows you to put an older camera to use and opens up a new time time of day for productive image creation.
Fotopro tripods are well worth checking out. You can learn about the ones I use and recommend by clicking on the Fotopro Tripods link at the top of this page. If you want to see what other tripods might fit your needs check out the Fotopro.com website. Check back with me before you buy as a Fotopro Ambassador I’m able to get you discounted pricing including complementary continental USA shipping for my followers that you won’t find through retail outlets.
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Lightning, waterdroplets, sound, time-lapse, HDR sequences, smiles and much more control for your camera!
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The new Bracket Menu. Options include Exposure Bracketing, Aperture Bracketing, Focus Bracketing and White Balance Bracketing.
Menu with the Focus Bracket Chosen.
Each one of the menus adds choices. You’ll need to experiment and ‘bracket’ your choices as you learn the results. Step – is the distance that the focus will move on each exposure. Image Count – will be the number of frames made with a single push of the shutter button. You’ll want to ensure there’s enough to cover the scene. Sequence – is the order the images are taken in. Choices are 0/+ to start close and go far (I recommend) or 0/-/+ which will alternate how the bracket is accomplished. I found that Photoshop tends to choke when creating the focus stack using this setting.
