Lumix LX100. Built on a solid magnesium body with all necessary controls on the exterior of the body with machined knurled knobs or solid switches. Fast f1.7-2.8, 24-75mm, Leica DC zoom lens. While this camera is only 12.8 MP, it has 4K video and Photo Mode which enables printing of images pulled from still frames. Features are coming out the wazoo of this camera including several ways to capture HDR images, bracket your aspect ratio, bracket white balance, 11 frames per second burst rate, and more.
Here’s an image I created from a three-stop bracket of the red rocks. The frames were processed in Aurora HDR software from MacPhun.
Red Rocks of Sedona, Arizona – High Dynamic Range (HDR) Photo
Here’s the three stop bracket. Images Straight Out of Camera (SOOC) Middle exposure was 1/160th sec f8 ISO 200 34mm (FF equivalent 75mm)
I’m liking the Aurora HDR software as it has LOTS of controls for processing the image without having the ‘HDR halos’ and other problems I always associated with using software to process multiple exposures. There are many presets for getting into the ballpark of the image you would like to create. You can still go HDR crazy if you want to push it that way. It’s up to you.
Aurora HDR software window. There are many more controls available by scrolling the right-hand panel. There are also a plethora of presets with the ability to create and save more of your own.
I feel we are living in a time of unlimited creativity. Between the new camera capabilities and software options imaging is moving into a whole new world. Yes, it’s easier for the average person to obtain a correctly exposed image. But, for those of us who have been working photographers for a long time, we can leverage that knowledge and push the tools to give us more possibilities for creating images with solid depth and dimension.
For photographers that are looking for a new and improved HDR photo editing experience, MacPhun is offering a very special competitive upgrade price, and some very special bonuses when they switch to Aurora HDR Pro from their current software.
Key Features:
*Special Competitive upgrade price: $79.99 $20 Savings
Exclusive live webinar with Trey Ratcliff
20 Minute Deep Dive Aurora HDR tutorial with Trey
Jeff Carlson HDR ebook
A collection of full resolution textures from Flypaper textures
How to HDR video training with Matt Suess
*competitive upgrade pricing requires screenshot of their existing HDR app to qualify, qualifying competitive upgrade apps include but are not limited to: Photomatix, Adobe Photoshop, Lightroom, HDR Efex Pro, and many more
I do! I always try to improve my skills by pushing out of my comfort zone and create different images from different places.
I always try to improve my skills by pushing out of my comfort zone and create different images from different places.
So how do you do it? One of the best ways is to continually practice and expand your skillset. Anyone who is at the top of their game in any sport, yes I consider photography a sport as well as an art form, practice daily. Why do I consider it a sport? Depending on your photographic genre you need coordination, timing, and stamina. This goes for shooting sports, weddings, wildlife or other fast moving situations. Why art? Art because you need to create or recognize wonderful lighting in order to have your images rise above the ordinary. Both the ‘art and sport’ parts of your work can be improved by working on your muscle memory. And, you guessed it, that takes practice.
Guess what? Your composition gets better when you practice too.
You also need to practice your post production as well… And the more you do it, well you get the idea.
I always try to improve my skills by putting myself in different situations and today I’ll share some images from the Phoenix zoo. For a little accompaniment push the button to listen to Paul Simon’s song ‘At the Zoo’.
Paul Simon with Garfunkle “At the Zoo’ from around 1967. (am I showing my age here??)
Orangatang at Phoenix Zoo. Captured with Lumix FZ1000 1/40th sec f4 ISO 200 – With a range of 25-400mm the FZ1000 is a very handy lens covering a wide variety of situations.
“OK Bob, so how is this zoo practice good for practicing other types of photography?
I’m fighting crowds to get the angle I want. Looking to capture expression which happens very quickly. In this instance, I am also going to be working hard in my post processing because this image was made in less than ideal lighting conditions through a thick, colored, and dirty pane of glass.
Did I say it wasn’t an ideal situation? That never happens on a regular photo shoot… (cue the laughter bouncing off the walls!)
Here is the final image I was able to pull from the original capture.
A couple of post processing tips I picked up from working on this photo of the orangutan. Adobe Camera RAW has a feature called DeHaze. This was quite helpful in getting a lot of the reflections and dirt on the glass to disappear. Did a much better job than I thought it would!It was designed to help with scenics to take some of the blue out of a landscape image but it worked very much like a Polarizing filter in this situation. I will be revisiting this filter more in the future. I love how tools and setting designed for one thing can be leveraged to do more.
After the initial processing in Photoshop I moved over to my favorite black and white conversion tool NIK Silver FX Pro 2. I made my black and white selections in the filter. These process out onto their own layer, and with a Mask, additional adjustments can be made. One more time back into Silver FX Pro 2 (it’s free now!) and I made some adjustments to the Structure, dialing in very strong enhancements to the mid tones and the fine structure. I changed the Mode of that new layer to Luminosity and filled the mask with black. Then I was able to paint with white on the mask to selectively sharpen specific areas of the image.
Last on the list was a Soft Light Mode Layer to dodge and burn.
Set aside the weekend nights of November 4-5 and think about joining Arizona Professional Photographers Association as we head out on the road again for our annual Fall Fest. Of course, since this will be a limited number of people event seats will be opened to AZPPA members first. If there are still places available they’ll be opened to non-members. If you want to be sure to be included in the event you can become a member and get all the benefits including first shot at signing up for events like this…Page Arizona
Page, Arizona is home to the beautiful slot canyons and while some have become quite busy like the well-known Upper & Lower Antelope Canyons, there are still some off the beaten path places you can tour. One is known as Secret Canyon and arrangements are made to tour this as a part of AZPPA’s Fall Fest.
Here are a couple images I made while on a scouting mission with Bruce Roscoe for the association. We’ll be producing a video with more info but here’s a taste to whet your whistle!
Secret Canyon – Page Arizona
This image was captured with the Lumix GH4 and the Lumix G Vario f4.0 7-14mm lens. Settings were 1/6th sec at f13 ISO 200 14mm (28mm 35mm equivalent) When in low light high contrast situations like this bracketing exposures is almost a requirement and a tripod is a necessity. A great feature with the GH4 is a dial on top of the camera allows you to quickly access the bracket setting. You can be shooting a single image one moment then with two clicks you are in bracket mode. I have mine set for five exposures one stop apart in this situation. This gives me all the information I need to get detail in the shadows and detail in highlights.
Once back in the studio there are several methods to combine the bracketed exposures including Adobe’s Lightroom and Photoshop. If you are on a MAC computer there’s a new HDR software called Aurora HDR from MacPhun which I have been enjoying. I choose four of the exposures to process. Even though I was on a tripod I had the software align the images in order to assure the best results because pushing the shutter button might have moved the images ever so much. After processing in Aurora I did a little dodging and burning to open up a little detail and guide your eye through the image.
Secret Canyon – once again
Settings a gear were the same for this image as outlined above. I added a little trip into NIK filter land for a little glow (which could have been added in Aurora) but I wanted a slightly different look and didn’t want to blow out the highlight on the log. I’m still learning the Aurora HDR software or I would have completed the image in there. Sometimes it’s just a little easier to go with what you know but I have been getting better and better results with Aurora the more I work with it.
Wall of Fame in Sedona, Arizona – Sound Bites Grill
Putting in some new imagery at Sound Bites Grill in Sedona, Arizona.
And it’s me…
My image for the Wall of Fame
As you may or may not know I create art for Sound Bites Grill based on the live performances. Steve asked me to design some signage to introduce the Artist of the images (hey that’s me!) in the hall of the ‘Wall of Fame’. So I needed to come up with something similar to the art that is in the halls.
And as long as I was working on something a little different I thought I’d show you some of the inner workings from my thinking (that’s scary!) and how I utilize Adobe Photoshop to create the art using Textures in Layers with Masks and Blend Modes.
The Layers Palette tells a lot of the story but not all…
You get an idea of the workflow but a major part of the story is how the Layers are Blended using the Blend Modes. Almost all of these Layers are in a different Blend Mode with opacity changes and of course Layer Masks to further refine hoe the layers will interact. Hope this peek into the process will give you some ideas. If you have any questions give me a shout.
Most of the images were made with the Lumix GH4. (which is $200 off for a bit right now at $1300) The head shot was made easier in studio because of the free Panasonic APP I use on my phone & IPad which allows me to change settings and focus as well as trigger the shutter from subject position. In the past I would have had to pre-focus and hope I was in the right spot and if I moved I ended up out-of focus which used to drive me crazy!
It was fun putting this together… Let me know what you think!
HDR. High Dynamic Range. AKA how to jam a whole lot of light into an image the way our eye would see the scene. I’ve always been a fan. As a matter of fact I was one of the first authors to teach this when I was making videos for Software Cinema. I showed how to use this process to make landscapes and real estate scenes look their best.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have a catchy name for it. Nor did I design a software program or cause others to do so on my behalf that did most of the heavy lifting for the HDR process either… Oh well.
Five image sequence, handheld, processed in Aurora HDR software.
Even though there have been many iterations of HDR software it’s been a while since there was a new player with a different interface that included many new possible settings in and easy to understand interface and, wait for it, layers too! The new software is called Aurora and was designed by HDR travel image specialist Trey working in conjunction with Mcphun Software.
I was given the software to play with… And, I like it!
Another 5 image handheld bracket using Aurora HDR software
Same image as above processed differently from same exposures.
It gives you the ability to totally go HDR berserkers! Or, create a very natural scene with full dynamic range. Or somewhere in between so you can have the best of all worlds. An artistic, realistic representation of a scene that DOESN’T SCREAM HDR!!
All images were captured with the Panasonic Lumix GH4
Yours in Creative Photography, Bob
PS – At this time Aurora is only available for the MAC platform at the moment
In a previous post I showed you a finished time lapse video captured from the parking lot of Mariposa Restaurant in Sedona overlooking the red rocks after having lunch there last Sunday afternoon. While having a great lunch we were watching the clouds clear after a bit of weather. And you guessed it, I had to run home and grab my gear. Today I’d like to share some ideas on what settings to look at when thinking about creating your own time lapses.
Depending on your scene and how long you would like to cover it you should decide the space between your image captures. Math comes in handy here and you will start to have an idea of your settings almost by instinct. For example, depending upon the speed of moving clouds I’ve found the interval that works for me is between three & five seconds. The rate that the images should be played back is between 12-24 frames per second. The time lapse in the previous post covered a period of about 40 minutes with 3 second intervals and 24 fps. This translated into a video that was about 35 seconds long. Now not being a fan of that much math here is a calculator that will help you figure things out including how much memory you will need to have in your camera to complete your session.
Time Lapse Calculator
Time Lapse Calculator from PhotoPills. You can download your own for your web site or get the App to calculate while on site. Try it right here you’ll like it!
Lumix Time Lapse Processing Features
A great feature in the Lumix cameras like the GX8 used to capture this time lapse is the ability to process the video in camera choosing from a large number of settings in quality and frame rate. When calculating how much memory you need to have on your card remember you’ll need room to process and store the final video as well. I processed out the video using the 4K setting. 4K is four times bigger than HD video which means you can place it in an HD timeline then have room to pan and zoom which adds a lot to the final product. There are many programs you can use but I used Adobe Premiere Pro CC.
Screen Capture of still files in Adobe Bridge.
I shoot in RAW so I can process the original files for stills or for color tweaking if necessary. Then process out the files into jpegs and use a free program such as Time Lapse Assembler to put your video together. (link for MAC for link for PC. There are plenty of free or freeware programs to choose from. Find the one you like.
Time Lapse Assembler window. I like it because it’s pretty simple and straightforward!
Shoot longer than you think is necessary. The first couple times out my time lapses were only seven seconds which was a little disappointing. Use the calculator above to save yourself some heartache.
For infrared conversion of my cameras I use LifePixel. Infrared allows you to put an older camera to use and opens up a new time time of day for productive image creation.
Fotopro tripods are well worth checking out. You can learn about the ones I use and recommend by clicking on the Fotopro Tripods link at the top of this page. If you want to see what other tripods might fit your needs check out the Fotopro.com website. Check back with me before you buy as a Fotopro Ambassador I’m able to get you discounted pricing including complementary continental USA shipping for my followers that you won’t find through retail outlets.
Learn Photoshop in a fun environment. Aaron Nace applies the right amount of fun with easy to understand and follow tutorials. Actions and brushes are included with lessons!
Lightning, waterdroplets, sound, time-lapse, HDR sequences, smiles and much more control for your camera!
Cameras Get Smarter -
A High Speed Smart Camera Remote
Best embroidery ever. Give Queensboro a try, get a $20 instant credit to get started by clicking on the logo! They specialize in great quality custom logo apparel and promotional products with the best customer service.
Platypod has become a great resource for being creative in getting your camera gear easily into unusual places. As an Platypod Pro I get to work/play with the gear even before it comes out. Head over to Platypod, subscribe to the newsletter and you will get special discounts reserved only for subscribers.
Here’s the three stop bracket. Images Straight Out of Camera (SOOC) Middle exposure was 1/160th sec f8 ISO 200 34mm (FF equivalent 75mm)
Aurora HDR software window. There are many more controls available by scrolling the right-hand panel. There are also a plethora of presets with the ability to create and save more of your own.
